DOHA,
Qatar-You can't really go home and honestly
tell your friends you've been to Doha unless
you take the afternoon off to check out the
camel races. Let's face it: This Sheraton
is a lovely modern hotel but it could be anywhere
from Alaska to Zimbabwe. To really get a sense
of this city, you've got to rip yourself away
from these riveting sessions and spend the
afternoon at the track. Yes, it is true that
camels are raced only three times a year.
But the rest of the time, both man and animal
spend their weeks preparing for the exciting
day when the city pauses from its less-than-hectic
pace to feel the excitement of watching five-year-old
children jockey these hump-backed athletes.
Just
as it would be quite something to watch Michael Jordan
quietly prepare for another NBA championship, it is
a privileged experience to watch a gang of camels sprint
around a seven-kilometer track as their owner rides
alongside in his four-wheel-drive Jeep, looking for
the superstar in the crowd.
Only a 20-minute drive from the Sheraton, the
trip to the track is worth the time. En route you'll
find construction everywhere. Not just regular
old boring construction. As you get farther away
from this conference, you'll witness the creation
of magnificent mansions that remind you of the
tremendous increase in the standard of living here
in Qatar.
Seeing
the hundreds upon hundreds of majestic white
palaces that
are mere weeks from completion,
you begin to wonder whether the locals are familiar
with "The Beverly Hillbillies," the American
television program from the 1960s that depicts
the lives of regular folks who struck oil and optimistically
moved into a fancy mansion.
Beyond these sand castles, you'll turn off the
main drag and find yourself in camel country, where
every sign and every store relates to this ancient
sport. If you were a camel owner, you'd stop in
at one of these dusty shops to purchase the Australian
barley that is imported to feed Qatar's thousands-perhaps
millions-of camels.
Drive a little farther and you'll know you've
reached the right place when you see the fluorescent-helmeted
children who play near the entrance of the park.
Originally from Sudan, these four-to-six-year-olds
are actually professional athletes who are hired
to jockey the camels on race day. Their training
is year-round, preventing them from attending traditional
schools. Once they grow up and gain too much weight
to work professionally as jockeys, the children
become trainers.
These jockeys, dressed in numbered jerseys, giggle
and make funny faces at Western visitors who drive
by, slowing their cars to take photographs. One
car, filled with adventurous conference attendees
is surrounded by children who playfully smile,
wink and blow kisses at its passengers. The scene
reminds you that-world-class professional athletes
or not-these are children and children will make
merriment of any situation they can.
Beyond the area where the children wait for training,
the track itself is oval in shape, with the race
running counterclockwise, but due to its size,
the camel is seemingly unaware that he is running
in a curve. At the start and finish line there
is a small stadium where the Emir and others spectate
the event. Here you will find the predictable advertisements
that decorate all major stadiums. In this park
you'll find ads for Qatar Air, Qatar National Bank,
as well as the local Nissan dealer, among others.
The
ground is covered with what looks like regular
sand. Closer inspection
reveals that the "sand" is
actually miniature sea shells, a reminder that
this was once beach property if not the ocean floor
itself.
As flock upon flock of birds fly around the stadium,
groups of camels trot around the track. The camels
are dressed with mustard-colored cotton cloth that
covers their humps. Strapped to them are colorful
blankets that serve as saddles for the jockeys
to sit. The main group today is doing endurance
training, running at three quarter speed. These
jockeys are mostly adults, though one child is
among the group. They wave their hands hello as
they pass, unable to stop for photographs, though
they smile broadly as they go.
All in all not much happens at the camel races,
unless this is game day, of course. But the trip
offers visitors the chance to see local turf and
experience a sport that locals value. Of course,
you could just spend all your time in the Sheraton,
buying food coupons, attending meetings and taking
shuttles, but then you couldn't honestly tell your
friends you've been to Doha.
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