DOHA, Qatar-When you
get right down to it, the problem with
Qatar is that there is just too much to
do, too much to see. Even if you dedicate
every conscious moment to getting down
the nittty gritty of this magical country,
a week's visit will never give you the
chance to see it all. I suspect that few
of the locals have checked out everything.
Like the folks in New York who have never
risen to the tippy top of the Empire State
Building, like the Tuscans who have never
strolled the streets of Palermo and like
the Indians who have never been wowed by
the Taj Majal, these lucky Qatari natives
probably haven't seen everything here.
Folks in this neck of sand, like everywhere
else on earth, are just too wrapped up
in their day-to-day activities to see,
to feel and to taste every speck of this
romantic country.
Many
people want to come here," my guide, Rashid Juma
Othman Al Thamimi explains as we bounce along in our
4x4 over the rocky desert nearly an hour and a half
west of Doha. "But it is too difficult to get
here."
I smile and nod my head wondering why anyone would
even bother. The desert in the south is a pleasure
to visit. With its soft, milky sand, periwinkle
blue Inland Sea and sublime view of Saudia Arabia's
peach covered mountain tops, the southern desert
is a walk in the park by comparison to this jolting
experience.
Here for as far the eye can see, the sand forms
the strangest Dr. Seuss-y peaks that look like
the fluffed cream atop a cappuccino. They are nearly
as hot, I discover, when I venture out of the jeep
to snap a few shots on my now melting point and
shoot camera. A study in white, the photograph,
I am sure, will be indescribably lovely, but not
precisely what my editor had in mind for his four-color
newspaper.
"Don't worry so much," my guide, a Qatari
native, assures me. "You will see something
so beautiful in Areal-Al-deep. It is where they
filmed that great movie about Qatar." Just
then I see it. Off in the distance there is what
looks like a fairytale fort expertly landscaped
with pineapple-like palm trees. As we bounce a
little closer over the rocky boulders, the details
of this fantasy sand castle come clearer.
"This is a recreation of an old Qatari village," Al
Thamimi explains. "It was built by Qatar Television
for a movie that was broadcast last year during
Ramadan. Every night for 30 days, it played for
45 minutes. Everyone saw it. It was a great movie."
We pull our jeep up outside the white-walled fortress.
Outside we find two men, the area's caretakers
who protect the miniature village from mischief-makers.
Seated on small rugs, the men are grilling chicken
on a hibatchi, smoking sheesha on a hookie pipe
and listening to Arabic music on a boom box that
has clearly seen better days.
"Welcome," they say as we approach the
recreated village. "Would you like to see
where they filmed the movie? I think in English
you would call it "Son of Fox. Or maybe it
is Son of Wolf." My guide and I agree, thank
the men and set off on our mini-tour, through this
tiny town.
"This is where horses and camels eat," Al
Thamimi explains, pointing to a trough. "I
don't know the word in English. It is a like a
restaurant for animals," he continues with
a laugh, knowing his words are hilariously funny.
We continue to stroll around the village, through
the blacksmith's shop, into the beautiful mosque,
to the meeting room where villagers 200 years ago
would have met to discuss local business and tell
stories among themselves.
"The film was about two warring families," Al
Thamimi explains. "Both were very powerful
with many members, dozens of animals, lots of money.
Each family was very powerful. To make the movie,
they hired locals to play the villagers. Just outside
these walls they staged the war."
To accurately recreate the village, Qatar Television
paid attention to every detail. Every building,
every door and every palm leaf-thatched roof was
lovingly designed to accurately represent the lives
of Qatar's people and the architecture of the countryside
two centuries before.
Scaling the town's spiral staircase to the lookout
spot is a scary experience. Winding up to the top,
I think I am home free until I see the wooden ladder
that awaits me half way en route to the viewing
platform. I toss off my three-inch heels, tuck
my notebook into the waistband of my long khaki
skirt, literally shove my camera into my bra and
start to scale the ladder.
I can't decide what is worse: the fact that anyone
who cares to can see up my skirt or that I am terrified
of heights and fairly certain that I will trip
on my way down.
"Be careful, Regina," Al Thamimi calls
out. Startled to hear his voice and worried that
my guide is directly under the ladder with a prime-time
ant's eye view of my quivering legs, I look down
to find no one there. Relieved, I continue up and
choke out a response, "I'm fine, Rashid. I
love ladders."
The view from the top is worth the trip. Standing
up there across from the proud white minaret that
sprouts up to the now mandarin sky, I see a world
few at this conference will ever experience. In
the distance, a flock of sheep waltz around the
blustery desert, crying out to the world. They
sound like a room of crybaby kindergarteners, squabbling
over toys. To the right, some camels mull about,
striking poses like bored fashion models, awaiting
their next look-see.
My guide and the caretakers talk quietly down
below. Perhaps Al Thamimi is giving them news from
Doha. The men haven't left this compound in the
last year and they appear to be eager for information
about the world outside. Confident that I'll get
my fill of good news and bad upon my return, I
breathe in the humid air, luxuriating in the peace
and silence of a simpler world, when man's world
was smaller and price was determined at the point
where supply met demand.
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