The
dusty road heading south from Doha to the
desert becomes increasingly desolate with
each passing minute. The already sparcely-populated
and modestly-developed city center gives way
to wide open highways with a few luxury villas
on each side of the road. Moments later there
are no buildings or people in sight at all.
For as the far as the eye can see there are
just wide open white spaces, or so it seems.
From
the look of the thick 104-page research report that
Our guide today on this tour is Rashid Juma Othman Al Thamimi, a 32 year-old
Qatari native who should teach university courses
in hospitality. Charming, kind, and intelligent,
Al Thamimi is a diplomat, a philosopher and the ideal
person to rescue a weary conference attendee from
the tedium of security checkpoints, shuttle bus transportation,
and those food and beverage coupons we exchange for
a cool drink and a nourishing snack.
"You are my guest," he explains warmly. "As
long as you are in my country, I am here to protect
you, to keep you safe."
Today we are heading for a safari adventure in
the desert to explore the soft sandy area just
south of Doha and a mere 300 meters from the Saudi
Arabian border. Our first stop is Sealine Beach,
20 kilometers south of the fiery chemical processing
plants of Em-Sigh-Eed.
It is here, near
the entrance of the beach area, that Al Thamimi
jumps out of his four wheel drive
jeep-his red and white head cloth blowing in the
wind-to deflate the tires "from 2.5 bar pressure
to just less than 1 bar pressure to make it easier
to drive on the sand," our ever-smiling guide
explains.
Back at the wheel,
Al Thamimi begins the safari with a pop of the
glove compartment that doubles
as a beverage center, complete with two fresh fruit
juices and a bottle of chilled water. "Please
take one," he encourages with a twinkle of
the eye. "This one is mango."
With those words we are off climbing the sand
dunes that from a distance look like pure white
snow-covered mountain peaks. Not a timid driver,
Al Thamimi handles the car like the Arab Mario
Andretti, flying across the blowing sand at 100
kilometers per hour.
As we bounce along the desert terrain, Al Thamimi's
expertly hugs the contours of the sand dunes, guiding
our jeep like only a native can, for he literally
knows every bump, every curve, every particle of
sand in this desert playground.
"If you want I can slow down," he graciously
offers. "I know you have come to the desert
to feel relaxed. I want you to be happy. Just let
me know." Assured that his driving is surprisingly
calming, Al Thamimi begins to explain his heart-felt
respect for people, his love of the desert and
of his country's rich history.
"I do other things. I sell cars-Mercedes,
Cadillac, Rolls Royce. I have a degree in Business
Administration from Sudan University," he
offers. "And I take people on trips because
I love tourists and I love the desert. Being a
guide gives me the chance to come here every day."
As he points out the peach-colored mountain range
just beyond the Saudi Arabian border and the cluster
of camel wandering in the area, Al Thamimi offers
a brief history of Qatar, explaining that originally
there were two kinds of people here: those who
made their money from the sea and the Bedouins.
"There were three kinds of sea people: the
pearl divers, the traders and the fishing people.
After Japan began to produce cultured pearls that
were of the same quality, but cheaper, the pearl
diving stopped. That makes sense. Who is going
to buy the same pearls for more money?" he
asks perhaps unaware that he is talking about precisely
the kind of globalized trade that is the subject
of the conference 100 kilometers away.
Continuing his talk about the traders and fishermen
who earned their living from their work on the
ocean and the nomadic Bedouin who long ago settled
down, Al Thamini pulls over to greet the camels,
assuring his skeptical guest that they are gentle
creatures.
"Look here," he
calls out motioning his arm toward the camel's
mouth. The camel, clearly
comfortable with human contact, smells his cuff-linked
sleeve-interested but not very-in this charming
tour guide. I was afraid he (the camel) would bite
me. He didn't, of course, although he smiled at
me with plaque-caked teeth. He (the camel) also
agreed to pose for a glamour photograph.
We jump back into
the jeep and Al Thamini continues his brief history
of the area and its transformation
from a third world nation where "life was
not very easy" to a thriving country, where
some Qataris own multiple luxury cars and fancy-schmancy
mansions.
We continue our drive for 15 minutes more, scaling
the wall of a sand dune and then slowly descend
down its sharp slopes. It feels like a rollercoaster
ride that moves at a snails pace, offering the
passenger the opportunity to truly feel the force
of this magnificent ride.
Just then we see what surely must be an illusion
for it is one of the most beautiful sights in the
world: the Inland Sea or Khor-Al-Adaid as it is
called in Arabic.
Crystal blue with a gently rippling current, the
Inland Sea connects with the Arabian Gulf and looks
like a mirage, far too beautiful to be reality.
Here Al Thamini guides his guests for a dip in
the water, followed by a relaxing conversation
about life in Qatar, as the bright red sun sets
on another beautiful evening.
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