Vienna - From mid-November onwards those in search of yuletide cheer flock to the Austrian capital Vienna for some of the most romantic and traditional Christmas markets the German-speaking world has to offer. At times like these the aroma of roasted sweet chestnuts, gingerbread and mulled wine lingers over the city centre where numerous choirs and brass bands strike up their heartwarming, seasonal songs.
Tourists and locals throng the festively-decorated streets and pedestrian zones in their thousands in search of the spirit of what is one of the most important annual events in the Christian calendar.
Admittedly, for those in search of a peaceful advent, the Austrian capital is not necessarily the best destination. "This year we have 23 Christmas markets to choose from," said city authority official Michael Horak.
"Some of them are open daily from mid November while others trade from Friday to Sunday only," he said. The total number of yuletide booths stands at 953, ranging from those offering handcrafted Christmas decorations and sweets through to wooden manger figures from Tyrol and truffle oil from Slovenia.
"The Christkindlmarkt in front of the town hall is the largest with 145 stands," said Horak. Organisers expect between 3.2 and 3.5 million visitors to what is probably the best known Christmas market in Vienna.
Adorned with all manner of lights and decorations, the trees in the nearby park provide a backdrop to the magnificent neo-Gothic town hall which was built in the 19th century directly opposite the renowned Burgtheater.
The atmosphere is different at Spittellberg market with its stalls embedded in a set of idyllic streets which date back to the Biedermeier era. The mood here is more romantic with a touch of the morbid charm for which this city is famous. Tourists love it but some Viennese see it as a relic of the past.
Those in search of a more contemporary Christmas might like to try the trendy market in the museum district which sees itself as an alternative to the traditional events. There are DJs on hand to play the latest hits, barkeepers serve drinks and those with sporting ambitions can skate on ice rinks or try their hand at curling. Exclusive designer goods from all over the world and contemporary artwork are on sale here along with unusual culinary delights.
The atmosphere of a traditional Viennese Christmas fair can be savoured at one of the most handsome of city squares, the Freyung. The event here features a mixture of exquisite craftwork, tasty treats typical for Christmas time in Vienna and a varied cultural programme. All in all, the market here is quieter and the atmosphere less touristic. Not far from here is the rival Christmas market "Am Hof," where visitors can expect to find fine candles and ceramics along with wood carvings.
Located on the square between the city's two main museums off the majestic Ringstrasse is a Christmas village which offers plenty of festively-decorated stalls and treats. It takes place under the magisterial eye of a monument which honours the former sovereign, Maria Theresia of Austria.
No visit at this time of the year would be complete without an excursion to the popular Christmas Village set against the glorious baroque backdrop of the world-famous Belvedere palace, once the residence of that celebrated military commander Prince Eugen. Open market stalls here offer traditional handcrafted goods, elaborate Christmas decorations and special culinary delights.
Another upmarket location with a large Christmas tree in front of it is Schoenbrunn castle where the market focuses on handicrafts and original gifts in truly historical ambience.
It is worth remembering that Vienna is a magnet for all kinds of shoppers at this time of the year, including many from neighbouring countries. It seems as if the whole city is out on the streets and carving a path through the crowds can be tiring. Not surprisingly, many Viennese regard this time of the year as extremely stressful.
A good idea for winter visitors is to combine visiting the Christmas markets with some regular sightseeing since most of Vienna's landmark buildings are within easy reach of the stalls.
A prime example is the Christmas Village at Vienna's former General Hospital which enchants the visitor with its cosy and historical atmosphere. Parts of the clinic date back to the end of the 17th century. The decorated market stalls are located on narrow alleyways and there are plenty of bars near at hand. Children and their parents can enjoy rides on a historical carousel or take a trip around the grounds in a pony and trap.
