Galdar, Gran Canaria - The northern part of the Canary Island of Gran Canaria is one of quiet villages, lush vegetation and almost no tourists. The south of the island, on the other hand, is famed for its package tourism where hotels and beach loungers are squeezed up against each other. That works to the benefit of the north where visitors can relax in friendly rural hotels, get to know the locals and enjoy Gran Canaria's quiet side without any hustle and bustle.
But compared to the south, the north does have one drawback: the weather is usually not as good as in the tourist resorts of Maspalomas or Puerto de Mogan. Locals call this weather phenomenon in Spanish "panza da burra" (donkey belly) -- when dark clouds cling to the mountain tops, shading the landscape below. However, it rarely gets cold or uncomfortable. Instead, summer months are pleasantly warm, allowing visitors to make excursions.
Galdar in the island's north-west is an ideal place to begin. After the island capital of Las Palmas, Galdar is the largest town in the north and the atmosphere is typical for the Canaries. Locals like to meet in the market in the morning to chat about the last football match and go shopping. There are no postcards here but there are elderly women selling sardines at the side of the road that were caught early that morning by their husbands.
The town has one tourist attraction. Close to Plaza de Santiago in Galdar's centre can be found the best preserved settlement of the island's indigenous people. Several years ago building workers discovered the remains of a centuries-old settlement beneath a banana plantation that today can be visited in Cueva Pintada archaeological park.
Traces of the island's indigenous population can be found everywhere. In the neighbouring valley of Agaete, for example, an ancient burial ground is being uncovered and north of Galdar can be found dozens of caves cut from the rock above the road.
This complex of caves is called Cenobio de Valeron and from a distance looks a little like a Swiss cheese or a honeycomb. The caves were probably used to store food as they provided a good hiding place against enemies.
The town of Arucas is worth a visit thanks to its neo-Gothic church Iglesia San Juan Bautista which was inspired by the architect Gaudi's famous La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. In contrast to Gaudi's building, the church in Arucas is completed.
Well known outside the island is the rum made in Arucas' distillery and the viewing platform on the hill north of the town. When the weather is good you can see as far as the neighbouring island of Tenerife.
A short distance inland is Firgas which produces spring water. A brand of water bears the small town's name but it also has another sight for visitors' eyes: a waterfall in the town's centre.
The pilgrimage town of Teror is a place of even more peace and quiet. Around the pilgrim church stand small, tastefully restored houses. In the pedestrian zone, where the old barbershop stands beside the news-agent and photography shop, every house is painted a different colour - a charming sight to see.
In the island's interior is Gran Canaria's famous landmark, the Roque Nublo, a large stone monolith that previous generations of islanders thought linked the Earth with the sky. From here there is a wonderful view of the surrounding landscape. The area is also famous for its almond trees that blossom in spring. The best known baker on the island is also here and uses the almonds as the main ingredient in sweet cakes.
The town of Artenara is located 1,200 metres above sea level and geographically speaking is the highpoint of any visit to northern Gran Canaria. The serpentine drive to the town is well worth the effort as Artenara has the island's only cave church.
Carved into a rock face above most of the town's buildings, the entrance to this most unusual church is hidden from view. The church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Very little light penetrates the church's interior and its confessionals are made of stone. It is a place that could hardly be more removed from the noise and routine of everyday life.
Internet: www.spain.info, www.grancanaria.com.
