Hamburg - Shoes need special treatment in autumn and winter, more than at any other time of year. Special treatments help keep boots and shoes waterproof. But before doing any weather-proofing treatment on footwear, do a little test to determine the type of material in the boots or shoes.
There are symbols frequently used in the industry that help. Genuine leather carries a symbol that resembles an animal pelt, and a diamond-shaped symbol in fur indicates laminated leather. A woven pattern is used for textiles and a single diamond shape stands for other materials that come under the description of so-called high-tech, said Claudia Schulz of Germany's shoe institute in Offenbach.
The second step is the selection of the right type of treatment. Benjamin Klemann, who has his own facility in Hamburg where high quality leather shoes are made, has a general rule of thumb.
"For fine leather the best thing to use is a waxy product, and for rough leather a rich cream," said Klemann. Whether a treatment containing a colouring agent is used depends on personal taste. "Some leathers lose their colour and turn grey. When that happens, a product with a colour pigment is recommended," said Klemann.
Whether the product is oil or water-based, there is usually not a great difference in the quality of shoe polishes, said Bernd Glassl of Germany's industrial association for personal care and cleansing products in Frankfurt.
However, before using a product for the first time on new shoes, they should be impregnated to make them water resistant. Schulz recommends repeating the impregnation regularly, if the shoes are worn in wet weather.
Not every shoe is the same, so perfect care for shoes depends on the type of material used in the shoe. Smooth leather is best treated by brushing off any dirt first with a soft-bristle brush. Then it should be rubbed with a care product, possibly one with the corresponding colour. It should not be applied too thickly, however, because that will not allow the leather to breathe.
"No water will penetrate the leather, but no air will get through either. That will make the feet sweat," said Glassl.
Rough-textured leathers such as velour or nubuck are dyed throughout and require a new layer of colour. "On the other hand they are very vulnerable to damage from water and dampness," said Schulz. Thus, any dirt should be rubbed off and the leather re-impregnated. Then the surface can be roughed up again with a special wire brush.
A damp cloth or sponge is usually sufficient to cleanse patent leather. To make the leather shine, it can be occasionally treated with oil for patent leather. If the shoe gets wet and white marks appear around the edges, Schulz recommends a simple method for getting rid of them.
"Completely soak the shoe and gently rub the place where the white marks are with essence of vinegar," he said. "Afterward, stuff the shoes firmly with newspaper."
