Jaipur/Jodhpur, India - Perched high above the Indian city of Jodhpur, the magnificent fort complex of Mehrangarh looks like the set for a monumental feature film. A steep path leads to the first gate of the high-walled fortress, which dates back to the 15th century. It is one of many fortifications in this Indian federal state which give visitors a chance to step back in time and experience the magic of the Orient.
The rooms behind the delicate lotus-patterned, lacework sandstone facade of Mehrangarh are equally regal and impressive. Tourist guide Subhash Malik points to a gold-embellished seat made of marble while in another chamber stands a litter made of pure gold. It was designed to be carried by 12 men.
The well-stocked arsenal of the mighty edifice points to the anything but peaceful history of a fortification whose Indian name means "The Magnificent."
Rajasthan was once divided into 22 principalities, each with its own historical roots. They were united in 1947 when India gained its independence.
"But the rulers or maharajas retained a wide range of privileges until 1974 when the government declared them to be ordinary citizens," said local historian Narenda Singh Rathore. Several maharajas turned their palaces into hotels. The "Umaid Bhawan Palace" in Jodhpur is one of them.
The approximately 60-year-old building with its majestic 57-metre- high cupola was one of the last Indian palaces to be completed. It also ranks among the largest residences in the world. The elegant interior follows the Art-Deco style and staff wear colourful uniforms to match.
Indigo blue is the dominant colour of the facades in Jodhpur whereas Jaipur, some 320 kilometres away, is often known as "the pink city." The rulers here ordered buildings to be erected in the local sandstone, including the celebrated Palace of the Winds which is actually only a facade enclosing several levels of corridor.
"There is no need to spend too much time in Jaipur. The ancient former capital of Amber with its palace and fortress is much more interesting," guide Vivendra V Singh said.
The interior of the fort was the backdrop for the courtly life of the otherwise fierce Rajput warriors. Construction of the fort began in 1592 and the building is a superb example of Rajput architecture. Its chambers are decorated with mosaics and fresques or else studded with pearls and all manner of precious stones.
The centres of the most popular tourist resorts in Rajasthan bear witness to modern times, yet some once glorious cities appear to be still living in the past.
The mighty fort in the 12th century caravan city of Jaisalmer is a classic example. Bikaner, another key stop-over point on the caravan route, lies isolated in the Thar Desert yet its extensive 16th century fortifications boast more than 30 palaces and temples.
One of the best ways of exploring Rajasthan is to take an organized coach tour through the region although a self-drive holiday is more comfortable and allows for a higher degree of independence.
Travelling by coach is certainly easier on the nerves in a country whose lively roads are often teeming with traffic, pedestrians and cattle, all of whom pay scant attention to the highway code.
Car drivers should not expect to cover more than 45 to 50 kilometres a day. The alternative is to go by rail, but that can only be recommended to the hardy and resourceful.
Internet: http://www.rajasthan.gov.in
