Luang Prabang, Laos - Everything is just fine in Luang Prabang, particularly at 7 o'clock in the morning when the senior abbot raises his hand and the monks set off to collect alms in the small Laotian town. At the break of dawn, hundreds of men and boys stream out of the monasteries in silence, transforming the pale streets of the town into a sea of saffron yellow.
Prabang is the oldest religious centre of the eastern Asian country and giving alms to the monks is a time-honoured tradition among the town's residents.
Plenty of tourists get up early to witness the spectacle and they buy rice from local peddlers in order to stand at the roadside and donate a small amount to each passing monk.
Daily life in Luang Prabang is just as tranquil. A late-morning cup of coffee at the Sala Cafe is fresh and invigorating and from under the green fronds of the roof, visitors can gaze over the Nam Khan river wending its brown and sluggish way before embarking on the next temple tour.
It is easy to navigate around the streets of the old quarter of this town on the isthmus between Mekong and Nam. The promenades run parallel to the rivers and in between are rows of gabled temples and monasteries.
Back in 1995 UNESCO awarded the architecture of Luang Prabang and its natural surroundings the status of a world cultural site.
"Our aim is to retain the traditional Luang Prabang while at the same time improving living conditions for its people", said UNESCO worker Rasmy Sitthirath.
The oldest and arguably the most handsome monastery complex hereabouts is Xieng Thong. The sweeping roof is reminiscent of bird plumage and the glass stones in the famous tree of life mosaic on the back wall glint in the sun.
Yet however remarkable the architecture may be, the most lasting impression of Luang Prabang is the friendliness of its residents and their smiling faces.
The novices from the monasteries are keen to try out English phrases on visitors and there are plenty of opportunities for doing so. Around 100,000 tourists a year visit the town of 40,000 people, most of them from other parts of Asia.
The streets become noticeably more busy in the afternoons when villagers from the outlying villagers flock to the town on their spluttering mopeds, usually with several people perched on the pillion.
Before long the streets under the Phou Si peak are alive with shoppers and hawkers and the daily market opens for business. On sale are Buddha figures in all shapes and sizes, home-woven blankets, pillows and bags along with scarfs made of silk.
The prices vary widely, but there is something among the varied wares to suit every holiday budget.
Success comes to those who sweat and toil, say the gods - a thought which must have been shared by Buddha himself. A total of 328 steps lead to the golden stupa of That Chomsi on top of Mount Phou Si, past the carved figures of fire-breathing dragons and huge snakes.
Those who make the effort are rewarded with a commanding view of the royal place and the roofs of the many Buddhist temples. The Mekong and Khan rivers are clearly visible against a dramatic mountain backdrop.
The ascent is especially popular in the evening when the golden orb of the sun bathes the town's old quarter and the green hills beyond in a gentle reddish glow. When that moment arrives, time in Luang Prabong seems to stand still.
